Two Pakistani mountaineers on mission to make history

GILGIT: Pakistani climbers Sirbaz Khan and Shehroze Kashif started their journey to summit Shishapangma peak (8027m) in Tibet, China.
Khan from Hunza and Kashif from Lahore have already scaled 13 over-eight thousand-metres-high peaks in the world, including five eight-thousanders in Gilgit-Baltistan. They will be the first Pakistani climbers to summit all the 14 eight-thousander peaks in the world after scaling the Shishapangma peak.
On October 8 last year, Pakistani climbers Naila Kiani and Sirbaz Khan had survived an avalanche near the summit of Tibet’s Shishapangma peak. Two climbers from the US and Nepal died and two others from the same countries went missing after massive avalanches engulfed the main climbing route. No Pakistani climber has so far scaled the peak in Tibet.

Kashif Salman, the father of Kashif, told Dawn that his son arrived in Tibet from Nepal on Tuesday while and Khan was already in Tibet. He said the climbers will start their summit push in the second week of October.
“After last year’s avalanche incident at the peak, China has issued a new policy for climbing the peak this year. According to the new policy, all climbers will attempt to climb the peak in one group and there would be no separate expeditions,” he said.
Karrar Haideri, Secretary Alpine Club of Pakistan, in a statement said the Pakistani mountaineers were on the verge of making history. “We are thrilled to share that two of Pakistan’s most esteemed mountaineers, Sirbaz Khan and Shehroze Kashif, are on their final journey toward Shishapangma to achieve an extraordinary milestone in the world of high-altitude climbing.”
Khan, who has already scaled 13 of the 14 highest peaks in the world, is gearing up for the final ascent of his climbing career. On the other hand, Kashif has also scaled 13 of the world’s 8,000-metre-high peaks. His impressive track record at such a young age has made him a notable figure in the climbing community.
“Your dedication and courage serve as a beacon of inspiration to aspiring mountaineers across Pakistan and beyond,” Mr Haideri said.
Kashif in a Facebook post said, “After an amazing team lunch with the incredible crew and members from Seven Summit in Nepal, I feel more ready than ever to tackle Shishapangma, my 14th and final 8000er. This isn’t just the end of a mission, but the culmination of years of hard work, passion, and unwavering dedication.”

He added, “I carry the weight of not just my own dreams, but the hopes of an entire nation. The resolve to raise the green flag on highest peaks in the world drives me forward. This isn’t just about a record; it’s about showing the world what Pakistanis are capable of—strength, perseverance, and the will to overcome any obstacle. I’m grateful for the support of those who believe in me, and for the team standing beside me. Together, we are determined to summit this last peak and make history. The resolve is strong, the focus is clear, and the commitment is unshakeable.
“With every step forward, I’m reminded that nothing worth having comes easy. The mountains demand everything from you, and I’m ready to give it all. Let’s raise that Pakistani flag high.”
According to sources, China also has forbidden solo ascents and without supplementary oxygen on its eight-thousander peaks this year. The use of oxygen is now mandatory from 7000m upwards in China.
Published in Dawn, September 27th, 2024